Duisdale House Hotel, Isle of Skye

Arriving at Duisdale House Hotel at Isle Ornsay near Sleat, on a chilly early March afternoon, the big surprise was being ushered into the lounge where a complimentary glass of fizz was quick appear – a lovely touch and the benchmark for our stay.

This is a grand Victorian hotel, boasting an elevated position with views over Loch Hourn, a former hunting lodge with gorgeous, 35-acre gardens. Part of the Sonas Hotel Collection portfolio, four-star Duisdale has a range of spacious rooms – some with four-poster beds and others with that sea view.

Design merges the traditional with the contemporary to create a fresh, bold feel that is unexpected but very pleasing on the senses. The word “boutique” is a good description.

Robes and slippers along with particularly fluffy towels, rainfall shower and luxury toiletries are always appreciated – as is a really good hairdryer on which the Duisdale definitely delivers. Others, however, might be more grateful for the Espresso Coffee Machine which was also in our deluxe room.

Whatever floats your boat – and you can use one of six yacht moorings if you have your own – the welcome is warm and friendly. You can sink into sofas in front of a roaring fire in the cosy lounge at any time of the day to enjoy – I found it’s a great spot for cocktail – or find a spot to read a newspaper or magazine if you don’t want to stay in your room.

At multi-award-winning Duisdale, however, a hotel that has become a much sought-after venue for weddings, the highlight for me was the food. The restaurant has two AA Rosettes which tells you before you sit down that you’re in for a treat.

As you would expect, executive chef George Fraser sources much of his seasonal ingredients from Skye’s own larder and local producers with his skilful touch – and that of his talented team – creating impressive fayre from land, sea and sky.

I was interested to hear that the Sonas group is working on polytunnels to grow more of its own herbs, fruit and vegetables, and has set up a staff “green team” to initiate and follow through more environmental initiatives.

Back in the restaurant, scallops and duck starters along with mains of hake were among our favourites during our stay and there was an impressive ribeye of Scotch beef too. And if you’re staying for a few nights there will always be something different to try.

The chefs’ work is complimented by a slick front-of-house operation which is carried through to breakfast when a new team is waiting to set you up for the day. Think Buckie kippers, oak smoked Portsoy salmon with scrambled eggs or – my favourite – the full traditional Scottish affair with pork sausages from the local Kyle of Lochalsh butcher, Isle of Skye black pudding, and Campbell’s haggis shining most brightly on my plate.

Across the hotel, nothing is too much bother and it really is service with a genuine smile. Indeed, when the time came to leave it was quite a wrench to pack up and check out. But one thing is sure – I’ll definitely be back for a serving of understated luxury and a real taste of the Misty Isle.

Duisdale House Hotel, Isle Ornsay, Sleat, Isle of Skye IV43 8QW Tel: 01471 833 202 www.skyehotel.co.uk/duisdale