The Pierhouse Hotel & Restaurant, Isle of Skye

Driving through torrential rain on a somewhat dreich February afternoon it was a relief to see some blue sky poking through the clouds as we arrived at Port Appin. Of course, you take your chances with the weather in Scotland whatever the time of the year so not seeing our hotel – The Pierhouse – basking in glorious sunshine wasn’t a surprise.

What did surprise me, though, was the sight of “wild swimmers” taking a dip in the presumably very chilly water of Loch Linnhe – apparently these two ladies turn up most days – so than meant there was no excuse not to don our waterproof jackets and pop out for a walk later on.

Port Appin is a truly lovely spot – even when the sun’s not shining – and The Pierhouse Hotel & Seafood Restaurant has a prime location, just a few steps from the pier where the ferry runs back and forth to the isle of Lismore. The 12-bedroom hotel sits at the end of a narrow road with views over to Mull, the mountains of Morven, and the Ardnamurchan peninsula.

Owned by The Wee Hotel Company – its sister venue is the famous Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye – The Pierhouse has a relaxed, friendly vibe and you’ll find yourself in conversation with both staff and guests at some point during your stay.

General manager Fiona McLean and her team have a quiet, easy way of putting guests at ease – everyone gets the red-carpet treatment. Nothing is too much trouble. There’s always a smile and someone willing to regale the history of the distinctive building, at one time the pier master’s home.

Settled in to our gorgeous, contemporary room looking out over Loch Linnhe, it was time for an afternoon cocktail in front of the wood-burning stoves in the lounge then a wee walk to explore the village. It’s very small but there’s a local shop, a couple of galleries and an icon red phone box – a rare sight nowadays and this one operates a quirky book exchange.

If you’re spending a few days in the area then definitely do jump on that wee ferry and pop over to Lismore. Longer walks will take you to the imposing 16th-century Castle Stalker which is accessed via Jubilee Bridge. Jumping in the car – or opting to cycle by hiring an electric bike in the village – will enable you to explore a little further afield.

Now, let’s get to the main event – the food. The Pierhouse’s location in a fishing village dictates that fish and seafood are the stars of the show and having heard such good things from other people, I was confident I would soon be joining them to sing the praises of head chef Michael Leathley and his kitchen.

I wasn’t wrong. Hand-dived west coast scallops, Loch Linnhe creel-caught langoustines – caught by local fisherman Eoghan Black, no less – Scrabster monkfish and fillet of North Sea sole graced our plates. Simply but perfectly cooked, this is honest, Scottish cuisine at its very best.

My heart sings when a menu gives a nod to the artisan producers and suppliers providing its kitchen with the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

At The Pierhouse, your Loch Creran oysters are farmed by Judith Vajk at the Caledonian Oyster Company while James Maclean and Shona MacColl are responsible for your Loch Leven rope-grown mussels. Aged sirloin steak, meanwhile, is supplied by Mark and Morag Grant of Grants of Taynuilt.

Chef Leathley, who previously worked at A’Challtainn in Glasgow and has previously worked in other kitchens in Glasgow, Aberdeen and London, often checks the creels himself and when you’re sitting at your table in the restaurant – once the waiting room of the former pierhouse – and you gaze out the window, you really understand what “food miles” and local sourcing mean.

The Pierhouse Hotel, Port Appin, Argyll, PA38 4DE. Tel: 01631 730302 or email reservations@pierhousehotel.co.uk